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PRIMA ITALIAN FOOD FOR A LITTLE LIRA

December 27, 1992
Section: SCENE
Page: AA2

By Ed Murrieta Bee Staff Writer

TIME & MONEY

--Cafe Napoli is the latest addition to what's become Sacramento's Restaurant Row, opening about two months ago way in the back of the small plaza on Fair Oaks Boulevard that's also home to the Fish Emporium. And while the food is every bit as good as its tony neighbors', the prices are amazingly low, considering the quality of Cafe Napoli's southern Italian-Mediterranean cuisine. We were contemplating some interesting statistics while dining at Cafe Napoli recently. Consider this:

A survey a few years back found that nearly 50 percent of Americans say Italian food is their favorite.

A recent report from Italy's health ministry found that Italians are eschewing pasta by the plateful in favor of all-American cuts of beef, the redder the better.

We were chewing on this when the chef at Cafe Napoli brought our food to the table. And, boy, did we feel sorry for those beef-loving Italians.

This place is not for someone who likes to pick his or her way through a meal. This is hearty food for hearty eaters, served in large, fresh portions in a friendly, modern cafe setting.

The set-up is cafeteria-style, though on one of our visits, table service was provided. You order along Cafe Napoli's open kitchen, where pizzas are displayed near the wood-burning oven.

The chicken parmigiana ($4.95) is a large, tender thigh, breaded in a crispy batter spiced with rosemary and oregano and topped with a fresh, chunky red sauce. It's served with a hefty side of fettucini with red sauce, a mix of sauteed vegetables and a garlic roll that's crunchy and toasty on the outside and soft and warm inside.

The spaghetti and meatballs ($3.95) is a whopping platter of noodles smothered in a tangy red sauce and served with two fat, dense meatballs spiced with oregano, garlic and other seasonings.

The lasagna ($4.95) is a thick cut of layered noodles, spicy ground beef and mozzarella cheese. There's very little sauce on the casserole, but it's alive with so many savory flavors you'll never notice. It, too, is served with vegetables and garlic roll.

Mediterranean influences creep into Cafe Napoli's menu in the shape of kabobs.

We had a combination of the barg kabobs (filet mignon) and koobideh kabobs (ground beef) for $8.95. This is a meal that can satisfy two hungry people two 12-inch kabobs atop a pita and served with a mound of yellow-and-white rice sprinkled with saffron and topped with a tablespoon of butter. This is a meal that's best enjoyed slowly: The rice takes on new life once the butter has completely melted and mixed with the saffron.

The barg kabobs are tender and smoky, grilled to order, and satisfy any beef urges. Still, we found the cheaper cut of meat better: The koobideh kabobs are hand-packed ground beef, dense and mildly flavored. (They're available for $4.95 for two skewers.)

There also are chicken ($5.95), fish ($5.95) and vegetarian ($4.95) kabobs.

Excellent Caesar salads ($2.25 large, $1.35 small) are made to order, with fresh lettuce, a combination of oils and vinegars and a fresh garlic paste. Oddly, though, egg yolk is 50 cents extra, and anchovies weren't offered, but are available on pizzas.

Still, we won't quibble.

Rating: * * * *

CAFE NAPOLI Where: 2626-J Fair Oaks Blvd., 921-9999 Hours: 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 1-7 p.m. Sunday

In-and-out time: 25-40 minutes (depending on size of meal) What you'll pay: $4-$7 with drink Recommended bites: Spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna, kabobs

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