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STUNNING MENU IN A DOWNTOWN CAFE

March 7, 1993
Section: SCENE
Page: D2

By Ed Murrieta Bee Staff Writer

TIME & MONEY

EAT 'N' RUN

--Cafe Piazza

Where: 980 Ninth St., Suite 150, 446-2795

Hours: 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday

In and out time: 30 minutes. What you'll pay: $5-$7

Recommended bites: Grilled eggplant sandwich; tortellini with prosciutto in cream sauce

At first, Cafe Piazza looks like a cafeteria, albeit a rather nice one in one of your better office buildings.

But any resemblance to a cafeteria ends at the chic, utilitarian decor of subdued color-burst fleck patterns and wood-trimmed dining tables and chairs. For behind the sandwich counter (and behind that the kitchen), Cafe Piazza, which opened last month in the spanking-new splendor of the Sacramento Central Library/U.S. Bank Plaza complex at Ninth and J streets, features a stunning and modestly priced menu of Italian-and Middle Eastern-influenced sandwiches and a variety of pasta dishes that hold their own with some served in this town's finer restaurants.

Though Cafe Piazza offers the standard turkey, roast beef and ham sandwiches, the speciality sandwiches are the ones to order.

The Palemero ($4.95) is a grilled eggplant sandwich served with roasted red peppers, sauteed on-ions, fresh tomatoes and provolone cheese served on a dense, crusty fresh-baked French roll. The thick cut of eggplant is grilled tender and moist, with a mild hint of seasoning that mingles well with the sweet peppers and onions.

Grilled eggplant with fresh tomatoes, roasted red peppers and feta cheese on pita bread is $4.95.

The grilled chicken breast sandwich, too, is tasty at $4.95, topped with roasted red peppers, lettuce and tomatoes. At nearly three-quarters of an inch thick, the meat is light, tender and moist, although its flavor could benefit from any number of seasonings or marinades, or even the optional barbecue or teriyaki sauces.

The hummus sandwich ($4.95) is a mild mixture of garbanzo beans pureed with sesame tahini sauce and lemon juice. It's served in a pita bread with fresh tomatoes, spinach and an excellent eggplant salsa, a zesty concoction made with eggplant, tomatoes, cucumbers, fresh garlic and olive oil.

Though it's on the small side, the Siena sandwich ($4.95) is a treat: focaccia bread filled with hefty helpings of prosciutto, mozzarella, roasted red peppers and spinach.

Strangely, no side orders such as pasta salads, potato salads or even french fries are available, meaning large eaters may walk away this side of satiated.

If you're looking for filling, check out the pasta menu, where value-sized lunch portions reside.

Tortellini papalina ($5.95) is a creamy, spicy delight: cheese-stuffed spinach pasta dumplings with prosciutto (again, Cafe Piazza doesn't skimp with upscale ham), green peas and fresh herbs in a cream sauce. It's served with two pieces of hot, crusty garlic bread.

Other pastas include linguine pesto, fettuccine Alfredo and fettuccine primavera (all $5.25).

Cafe Piazza has daily specials. One special I ordered last week was the chicken Parmesan with penne pasta ($4.95). The fat, juicy chicken breast -- like the chicken sandwich, somewhat lacking in flavor -- is served grilled (unbreaded), topped with mozzarella and a light, fresh tomato sauce.

Other items on the menu include a Greek salad ($5.50), a freshly tossed Caesar salad with bay shrimp or chicken ($5.95), hot pastrami and corned beef sandwiches ($5.45), and falafel ($3.95).

Cafe Piazza also features a selection of gourmet coffees and espresso drinks as well as pastries, muffins and light breakfasts.

Rating: * * * *

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